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Retinoids school part 4: Retinoids train the barrier
Retinoid irritation isn’t a flaw or a failure of formulation. It’s a predictable biological response that emerges when powerful gene-signaling molecules collide with the skin’s protective barrier and immune system. Understanding why this happens explains both the generational evolution of retinoids and the phenomenon commonly called retinization. Retinoids act by binding nuclear receptors and changing gene transcription. This causes rapid shifts in epidermal behavior, includi

Laurence Dryer MD
Apr 93 min read


Retinoids school part 3: The evolution of the retinoid family
When people talk about retinoid generations, they’re not describing a natural biological family tree. They’re describing waves of chemical innovation, each generation created to solve specific problems uncovered by the one before it. The concept of generations emerged as scientists tried to balance three competing goals: Efficacy (strong receptor activation) Selectivity (target the right receptors) Tolerability (reduce irritation and systemic side effects) Here’s how that

Laurence Dryer MD
Mar 262 min read


Retinoids school part 2: Retinoid Myths
Retinoids have a reputation problem. For every “holy grail” story, there’s a horror story about peeling, burning, and wrecked skin barriers. Most of that fear comes from myths that confuse irritation with effectiveness. Let’s clear it up. Myth 1: If it’s irritating, it means it’s working The truth Irritation is not a measure of effectiveness; it’s a sign your skin is still adjusting. Retinoids work by changing how skin cells behave at a genetic level. Early irritation happens

Laurence Dryer MD
Mar 123 min read


RETINOIDS SCHOOL PART I The first generation and its cascade
Few skincare ingredients are as researched, debated, and mythologized as retinoids. They’re praised as gold-standard anti-aging actives, feared for irritation, and often misunderstood as a single ingredient rather than what they truly are: a family of biologically interrelated molecules derived from vitamin A. Understanding retinoids requires zooming out from individual product claims to the biochemical cascade happening inside the skin. “Retinoid” is an umbrella term for vi

Laurence Dryer MD
Feb 253 min read


The Rise Of Escapist Skincare
The beauty industry is undergoing a quiet but profound transformation. There has been a shift in consumer behavior from the “lipstick effect”, whereby purchasing lipstick, the ultimate recession-proof product, would become the last remaining indulgence and thus would send lipstick sales booming. The new consumer is into what Mintel calls The Comfort Capital. While products still promise smoother skin and brighter complexions, their deeper appeal increasingly lies elsewhere: e

Laurence Dryer MD
Feb 103 min read


Are Men Really Buying Skincare Products, or Is It Just Wishful Thinking by Companies?
In recent years, the skincare industry has been buzzing with one of its fastest-growing segments: men’s skincare. Advertisements for...

Jaime Castle
Aug 4, 20252 min read


Why Are US Consumers Obsessed with Korean Skincare? Endless Opportunities Ahead in the US Skincare Market
If you’ve browsed Instagram or visited your local beauty store recently, you’ve likely noticed one booming trend: Korean skincare...

Jaime Castle
Jul 28, 20252 min read


Quitting Toxin
The booming toxin business may not really be booming anymore in the US, but it is still the first request from consumers learning of a...

Laurence Dryer MD
Jul 25, 20257 min read


The Trouble With Longevity
Longevity is a hard endpoint because it assumes a future benefit that is implied rather than demonstrated and by itself clinically...

Laurence Dryer MD
Mar 18, 20253 min read


How Much is Too Much for a Single Product?
Pricing a product is one of the most challenging aspects of running a brand. As business owners, we often find ourselves packing a bottle...

Jaime Castle
Mar 4, 20252 min read


Parents in Skincare with Teenagers: A Cry for Help!
Alright, let’s be real—if you’re a parent working in skincare and have teenagers, you’ve probably had that moment. You look at your kid’s...

Jaime Castle
Feb 19, 20252 min read


The Scientific Process
A dear non-scientist friend of mine took me by surprise recently as I mentioned my reviewing a manuscript for a dermatology journal. “Are...

Laurence Dryer MD
Feb 7, 20254 min read


Skin Care Imposters: The Importance of Quality in Your Routine
As a self-proclaimed Amazon junkie, my shopping habits often revolve around convenience. Recently, my curiosity led me to explore the...

Jaime Castle
Jan 23, 20252 min read


Lash, Brow, and Lip Products: The Medical Community's Hesitation
Recently, there's been a surge of lash, brow, and lip products from physician-dispensed brands. While many of the beauty brands seem...

Jaime Castle
Dec 6, 20242 min read


How Many Personal Care Products Do Consumers Really Use Daily?
When it comes to personal care, data reveals some intriguing insights: the average person uses around nine products every day. Notably,...

Jaime Castle
Nov 21, 20242 min read


Which one should come first: the claim or the clinical study?
Do you wonder why your fancy 300% improvement claim is not capturing followers, adopters or converting into purchase? The number is...

Laurence Dryer MD
Nov 6, 20242 min read


Loyalty Programs: Friends or Foes?
We all want to encourage consumers to return to our offices and make repeat purchases. This benefits practices, brands, and sales...

Jaime Castle
Oct 31, 20242 min read


The Impact of Elections on the Aesthetic Market and Physician Practices
As we navigate through another election season, the ripple effects are becoming increasingly evident across various sectors, including...

Jaime Castle
Oct 24, 20242 min read
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